重新開缸，開好了，但魚鯺摺埋，why?

小魚迷..粉葛

我自己養魚冇禁複習……又計no2 3  kh ph ……依啲野
只係keep住個個星期換下水……污jo就刷下缸
啲魚都健康大食……有時朦眼就捉佢出黎過下淡
可能我果啲係粗魚……純粹個人意見^^

w071215

bartholomew 發表於 2013-7-29 22:02
我果d都係粗野。

w071215

bartholomew 發表於 2013-7-29 22:02
我果d都係粗野。

小丑係粗野 ?

w071215

bartholomew 發表於 2013-7-30 00:54
會唔會係有0.01或以下的亞魔尼亞？呢到寫0.01, d魚都會唔舒服 http://faq.thekrib.com/begin-tests.html

一切從氨的濃度磷酸鹽水平測試的測試套件有一個看似無盡的陣列。是否有一個真正需要購買呢？快速的答案是否定的。這是很有可能擁有一個健康的坦克沒有買一個單一的測試套件。然而，測試工具是非常有用的消除猜測出問題的時候（如魚出現強調或死）。在下文中，我們將描述的檢測試劑盒，是最有用的，在何種條件下它們是有用的。
氨檢測試劑盒
獲取一個。氨檢測試劑盒很便宜（$ 150-299），並會告訴你你的坦克是否有氨的濃度升高。在以下兩種情況下，這是非常有用的。首先，在水箱循環階段中，定期檢測氨會告訴你，當氮循環的第一階段已經完成。其次，你應該有原因不明的魚類死亡，氨測試驗證你的生物過濾器（或不）正確的工作。請注意，即使是在一個既定的坦克，生物濾池有時削弱或徹底失敗。常見的原因包括沒有定期清洗過濾器（水不能流過堵塞的過濾器，硝化細菌駐留）
天真地加入魚藥物（抗生素殺死硝化細菌（OOPS），以及攜帶疾病的），
•魚負載過小的過濾器等
警告：如果你有魚類死亡，隨後問淨額（或魚店）的意見，第一個問題問的是“什麼是您的氨和亞硝酸鹽的水平？''。
氨水平是衡量PPM。在濃度低至0.2 - 0.5 PPM（一些魚），氨會導致迅速死亡（諮詢進一步詳情的循環節）。即使在0.01-0.02 ppm以上的水平，魚類將被強調。常見的測試工具不註冊這樣低的濃度。因此，測試工具應該永遠不會在一個既定的坦克檢測氨。如果您的檢測試劑盒檢測任何氨，水平過高，並強調魚。立即採取糾正措施，通過改變水和識別問題的根源。

警告：Amquel和其他類似的“氨中和”水添加劑不符合大多數氨檢測試劑盒。氨虛假水治療Amquel將檢測結果呈陽性時，即使不存在氨。測試套件使用``納''方法，在這種情況下，提供虛假讀數。

亞硝酸鹽檢測試劑盒
你可能想要得到其中的亞硝酸鹽試劑盒很便宜（$ 150-299）和氨測試是非常有用的在相同的情況下非常有用。唯一的一次，亞硝酸鹽試劑盒氨包不能是氮循環（見的循環部分）第二階段測試完成時提供的信息。氨的情況下，如果您的測試試劑盒檢測亞硝酸鹽，生物過濾器工作不充分。坦克循環後，亞硝酸鹽試劑盒是幾乎無用。 （如果在一個既定的罐的生物過濾器不工作，氨和亞硝酸鹽的含量會升高）。
亞硝酸鹽是一種毒性小於氨幅度順序。因此，一個普遍的說法關於坦克單車是：``如果你的魚生存的氨尖峰，他們可能會生存的亞硝酸鹽穗，其餘的循環過程。然而，即使在百萬分之0.5以上的水平，成為魚強調。在10-20 ppm的濃度變得致命。

硝酸鹽檢測試劑盒
此套件！硝酸鹽含量增加，隨著時間的推移建立坦克氮循環的最終結果。 （此規則的唯一例外的是大量種植的坦克和一些礁石坦克，這可能是能夠消耗速度比它產生的氮。）因為在高濃度硝酸鹽變成有毒，他們必須定期清除（例如，通過定期的水的改變）。有硝酸鹽檢測試劑盒，可幫助您確定是否換水去除硝酸鹽的速度不夠快。
硝酸鹽對魚類的毒性（和植物）的水平為50-300 ppm，取決於魚的種類。然而，炒，成為有毒的濃度要低得多。

注：硝酸鹽檢測試劑盒只有有限的價值，在確定是否氮循環已完成。其實大多數硝酸鹽檢測試劑盒轉換硝酸鹽為亞硝酸鹽，然後測試亞硝酸鹽的濃度。也就是說，他們實際測量的組合濃度的亞硝酸鹽和硝酸鹽。在已建立的罐中，亞硝酸鹽的含量基本上是零，和試劑盒，正確測量硝酸鹽含量。然而，當坦克是騎自行車，硝酸鹽試劑盒不能告訴你多少閱讀（如有）來自硝酸鹽，而不是亞硝酸鹽。

pH值檢測試劑盒
獲取這些工具包是非常便宜的，所以沒有任何藉口不擁有。你會想知道您的自來水的pH值，這樣就可以選擇“魚”的要求，滿足您的用水條件。此外，您將要定期檢查你的坦克的pH值，這樣就可以確保它保持穩定，並沒有隨著時間的推移顯著增加或減少。
罐裝飾品（例如，浮木）或礫石（例如，在某些情況下，珊瑚，貝殼或石灰石）改變你的水的pH值。例如，坦克項目可能會慢慢浸出到你的坦克的水離子，提高GH和KH（pH值）。隨著浮木，它的情況並不少見有木慢慢浸出單寧酸，降低pH值。

總硬度（GH）套件
你可能想要得到其中的一個，但有一個並不重要。你不需要知道確切的硬度等級。知道你的水是否是``軟“，”很柔軟“，是不夠好。可能是你的本地魚店能夠給你足夠的信息。另外，打電話給你的的水公用事業（自來水節本FAQ）。
碳酸鹽硬度（KH）套件
本試劑盒是不關鍵的。通過定期監測的pH值，你可以找出是否您的KH是``足夠高“。也就是說，KH應該足夠高，隨著時間的推移你的pH值保持穩定。如果你有麻煩的pH值保持穩定，你可能想要增加你的坦克的緩衝能力。可能是你的本地魚店能夠給你足夠的信息為您的KH值。另外，打電話給你的水公用事業。
KH套件，然而，植物愛好者使用二氧化碳注入必不可少。它還強烈建議您得到一個，如果你想改變你的水的pH值，如果您遇到pH穩定性問題，它是一個非常有用的診斷工具。

w071215

嘉賞物流 發表於 2013-7-30 22:55
樓主可否將原文貼出來？經翻譯後不知講什麼？

Which Are Useful?
There is a seemingly endless array of test kits for testing everything from ammonia levels to phosphate levels. Does one really need to buy them? The quick answer is no. It is quite possible to have a healthy tank without ever buying a single test kit. However, test kits are extremely useful at eliminating guesswork when something goes wrong (e.g., fish appear stressed or die). In the following, we describe the test kits that are most useful and the conditions under which they are useful.
Ammonia Test Kit
Get one. Ammonia test kits are cheap ($5-10) and will tell you whether your tank has elevated ammonia levels. This is useful in two circumstances. First, during the tank-cycling phase, regular testing for ammonia will tell you when the first phase of the nitrogen cycle has completed. Second, should you have unexplained fish deaths, testing for ammonia verifies that your biological filter is (or is not) working correctly. Note that even in an established tank, the biological filter can sometimes weaken or fail outright. Common causes include •not cleaning the filter regularly (water can't flow through a clogged filter, where the nitrifying bacteria reside),
• naively adding fish medicines (antibiotics kill nitrifying bacteria (oops) as well as disease carrying ones),
• having too small a filter for the fish load, etc.
Be warned: if you have fish deaths and subsequently ask the net (or a fish store) for advice, the first question asked will be ``What are your ammonia (and nitrite) levels?''.
Ammonia levels are measured in ppm. At concentrations as low as .2-.5 ppm (for some fish), ammonia causes rapid death (consult the CYCLING SECTION for further details). Even at levels above 0.01-0.02 ppm, fish will be stressed. Common test kits don't register such low concentrations. Thus, test kits should NEVER detect ammonia in an established tank. If your test kit detects ANY ammonia, levels are too high and are stressing fish. Take corrective action immediately by changing water and identifying the source of the problem.

Warning: Amquel and other similar ``ammonia-neutralizing'' water additives are incompatible with most ammonia test kits. Water treated with Amquel will falsely test positive for ammonia, even when ammonia is not present. Test kits using the ``Nessler'' method are known to give false readings under such conditions.

Nitrite Test Kit
You might want to get one of these; nitrite kits are cheap ($5-10) and are useful in the same circumstances where an ammonia test is useful. The only time a nitrite kit provides information that an ammonia kit can't is while testing for completion of the second phase of the nitrogen cycle (see the CYCLING SECTION). As in the case for ammonia, if your test kits detects nitrite, your biological filter is not working adequately. Once a tank has cycled, nitrite kits are pretty much useless. (If the bio filter in an established tank isn't working, both ammonia and nitrite levels will be elevated.)
Nitrite is an order of magnitude less toxic than ammonia. Thus, one common saying about tank cycling is: ``if your fish survive the ammonia spike, they'll probably survive the nitrite spike and the rest of the cycling process.'' However, even at levels above .5 ppm, fish become stressed. At 10-20 ppm, concentrations become lethal.

Nitrate Test Kit
Get this kit! Nitrate levels increase over time in established tanks as the end result of the nitrogen cycle. (The only exception to this rule is heavily-planted tanks and some reef tanks, which MAY be able to consume nitrogen faster than it is produced.) Because nitrates become toxic at high concentrations, they must be removed periodically (e.g., through regular water changes). Having a nitrate test kit helps you determine whether or not your water changes are removing nitrates quickly enough.
Nitrates become toxic to fish (and plants) at levels of 50-300 ppm, depending on the fish species. For fry, however, much lower concentrations become toxic.

Note: A nitrate test kit is only of limited value in determining whether the nitrogen cycle has completed. Most nitrate test kits actually convert nitrate to nitrite first, then test for the concentration of nitrite. That is, they actually measure the combined concentration of nitrite and nitrate. In an established tank, nitrite levels are essentially zero, and the kits do properly measure nitrate levels. While a tank is cycling, however, a nitrate kit can't tell you how much of the reading (if any) comes from nitrate rather than nitrite.

pH Test Kit
Get one; these kits are extremely cheap, so there is no excuse for not owning one. You will want to know the pH of your tap water so that you can select fish whose requirements meet your water conditions. In addition, you will periodically want to check your tank's pH so that you can be sure it stays stable and doesn't increase or decrease significantly over time.
In some cases, tank decorations (e.g., driftwood) or gravel (e.g., made of coral, shells or limestone) change the pH of your water. For example, tank items may slowly leach ions into your tank's water, raising the GH and KH (and pH). With driftwood, it is not uncommon to have the wood slowly leach tannins that lower the pH.

General Hardness (GH) Kit
You may want to get one of these, but having one is not critical. You don't need to know the exact hardness level. Knowing whether your water is ``soft'', ``very soft'', etc. is good enough. Your local fish store may be able to give you sufficient information. Alternatively, call your water utility (see the TAPWATER SECTION of this FAQ).
Carbonate Hardness (KH) Kit
This kit is not critical to have. By regularly monitoring the pH, you can figure out whether your KH is ``high enough''. That is, the KH should be high enough that your pH stays stable over time. If you have trouble keeping the pH stable, you may want to increase your tank's buffering capacity. Your local fish store may be able to give you sufficient information as to your KH value. Alternatively, call your water utility.
A KH kit is, however, indispensable to plant enthusiasts who use CO2 injection. It is also strongly recommended that you get one if you want to change the pH of your water, and it is a very useful diagnostic tool if you are experiencing pH stability problems.